White Holland Lop Bunny and Blue Eyed White Holland Lop

White fur is honest. A colored kit can sit in a damp corner for a week and look fine in photos; a white one shows it on its hocks by the second day. We see that as a benefit for buyers. On a white Holland Lop, most of what a health check looks for is visible at arm's length, if you know where to look.

White Holland Lop Bunny Pickup Checklist

Bring this list to pickup, or ask for these photos in daylight before a flight delivery. It takes about five minutes, and we would rather you go through it with us than find something at home.

1. Eye color, both sides. A BEW has two matching clear blue eyes. One brown eye, a brown wedge in a blue eye, or a marbled eye means the kit is not a true BEW; it is usually a heavily marked Vienna carrier. An REW or pointed white has pink to ruby eyes that look darker in shade.
2. Eye surface and lids. Look for a clear, bright cornea with no cloudy patch, no crust in the inner corner and pink lids that are not swollen or red rimmed.
3. The cheek under each eye. On white fur, a weepy eye leaves a damp, brownish track running down from the inner corner. Holland Lops have short faces, and a tear duct squeezed by tooth roots is one cause, so any track deserves a question.
4. Nose and the inside of the front legs. Rabbits wipe their noses with their front paws. A kit with a runny nose has stiff, yellowed fur on the inner forelegs long before you hear a sneeze.
5. Ears. Lift each lop gently and look into the canal. A little pale wax is normal. Gray brown crust or flaking points to mites.
6. Teeth. Part the lips. The top incisors should sit just in front of the bottom ones, with no gap, no overlap and no twisting.
7. Hocks. Turn the kit and look at the undersides of the back feet. White fur should be intact. Yellow fur means it has been sitting in wet bedding; pink, bare skin is the start of sore hocks.
8. Vent and belly. Clean and dry, with no droppings stuck in the fur and no red, flaky skin from urine scald.
9. Body and weight. Run your hand along the spine. It should feel firm and rounded, not bony. Most Holland Lop kits weigh roughly 1 to 1 lb 12 oz at 8 weeks, depending on the line.
10. Paperwork. The three-generation pedigree should say whether each parent was BEW, REW, Vienna marked or colored. That record matters if you ever breed, and it explains surprises in color later.

Blue Eyed White Holland Lop Eyes, REW Eyes and Light

The two solid whites look identical from behind and are completely different genetically. A blue eyed white Holland Lop has two copies of the Vienna gene (vv). The Vienna gene keeps pigment cells out of the coat and most of the iris, which is why you get a white Holland Lop with blue eyes, but the pupil still looks dark, a sign that pigment remains at the back of the eye. In our barn BEWs handle light the same way colored rabbits do.

An REW Holland Lop is an albino (cc at the C locus). No pigment forms anywhere, eyes included. What you see as pink or ruby is blood behind clear tissue. With nothing to absorb stray light, an REW squints in glare and is happier out of direct sun. They see well enough to run, binky and find every snack bag in the house; the issue is comfort, not blindness. We place REW pens away from the barn's brightest windows, and we suggest the same for owners: no pen under a skylight, no afternoon sun through a south window, and a covered hide box where the rabbit can step out of the light.

Keeping a White Holland Lop Coat Clean

Urine stains are the complaint we hear most from owners of white rabbits, and they nearly always come from the setup, not the rabbit. A Holland Lop that sits in a soaked corner of its litter box picks up yellow on the hocks and the underside of the tail within days. Once the fur stains, it rarely comes fully clean; it grows out at the next molt.

Bedding for an all white Holland Lop

• Use paper based pellet litter or plain unscented paper bedding in the box, with a thick layer of hay on top. The pellets pull urine down and away from the feet.
• Skip dyed or colored paper bedding. Damp dye can tint white fur.
• Avoid cedar shavings and any scented litter. The aromatic oils irritate rabbit airways, and white rabbits are no different from any other color there.
• Choose a litter box big enough for the whole rabbit to sit in, about 16 by 20 inches for an adult Holland Lop, and dump the wet side daily, not every few days.

Flooring outside the box matters too. A rug or fleece over hard flooring stays dry and gives the feet grip. Wire floors and damp towels are both hard on white hocks. Our Holland Lop care and setup guide covers pen sizes and layout in more detail.

Cleaning without a bath

Full baths frighten rabbits, chill them and leave a dense coat damp at the skin for hours. For a stain, dampen a cloth with lukewarm water, work it through the patch and dry the spot completely with a towel and a fine comb. A sprinkle of plain cornstarch combed through the hocks and brushed back out lifts light soiling. Never use talc or human shampoo.

Vienna Marked Kits in a BEW Holland Lop Litter

Every BEW sits on top of a hidden color, and every BEW passes one Vienna gene to every kit. Breed a BEW to a rabbit with no Vienna gene and the whole litter is colored, but each kit carries Vienna (Vv). Many of those carriers show it: a white snip on the nose, a white star on the forehead, white toes, or blue streaks in an otherwise brown eye. Those are Vienna marked kits, often listed as VM. Some carriers show no marks at all, which is why a pedigree with a BEW anywhere in it is worth reading closely.

Vienna marks are a disqualification on the show table and have no effect on health or temperament. A VM kit makes a perfectly good pet, and a marked kit often looks striking. Do not confuse them with brokens: a grey and white Holland Lop or an orange and white one is almost always a broken, a different gene that produces large white patches. Our broken Holland Lop guide explains those patterns.

Pointed White Holland Lop Points in Cold Weather

A pointed white Holland Lop carries the Himalayan allele (c^h), which only makes pigment where skin runs cooler: nose, ears, feet and tail. Kits are born white, and the points tint in over the first several weeks. Because pigment is set as each hair grows, the points an adult grows in a cold month come in darker, and a summer coat can look smudgy and light. Owners who keep a pointed white in a cool room are often surprised by a near black nose after the first winter. The same temperature effect runs through the sable family, and our sable point Holland Lop page charts how far it goes.

When we list a BEW, REW or pointed white, it appears in the grid on this page; kits in other colors are gathered on the main availability page.